Outfits to Survive Winter In - Part Three (January—March 2024)
Cold weather is my Everest
Though last winter saw nary a snowbank, it took me months to thaw from my frozen creative state. I don’t think I’m being controversial when I say it doesn’t matter how seasoned the stylist, getting dressed is markedly less glamorous in the cold.*
* Shani claims the only exception, which underlines the rule.
As cold weather recurs once more, I find the addition and subtraction of outfit elements a sweatier endeavor, inflamed by the urgent need to layer and the reality of assembling of these layers in the uncontrollable dry heat generated by my radiator. The more articles of clothing in play and the wider the delta between the weather inside and out, the more diminished my capacity and patience for the operation. Dressing and re-dressing, haphazard piles accumulating on The Chair™ (I admit, I use my entire room), I inch ever closer to a meltdown.
Unless your plans are outdoors and you commit to an outfit that’s Coat-Centric, this process is unavoidable. Winter layering requires a deft hand —creating shape and steering through the skid of a Michelin Man or Ralphie Parker effect— in addition to patience for iteration. So when the cold takes hold, you throw the spaghetti at the wall and repeat whatever styles stick to avoid ripping off all your clothes and returning to bed, defeated.
As I’ve been reassured in therapy, the urge to contract is natural (emotionally, ecologically). It’s the other side of the pendulum with expansion: Flowers tuck away in closed, inert positions, budding and unfolding only when the time is right. This is why I’m trotting out some of last year’s outfits — With my little capacity dedicated to meeting basic needs, it feels as if creative potential is trapped somewhere below the cold, hard soil. I console myself: So what if I am engaging a mere 10% of my wardrobe and repeating last year’s outfits? So what if I’m still learning how exactly to layer for warmth and dimension? So what if I wrote most of this entry last year? It’s just a season, and seasons change. Woo-sah.
The Seeds:
I feel like a Aime Leon Dore x New Balance septuagenarian, but in Nikes. Every time I wrap a babushka headscarf, my ancestors beam. Last winter was the first winter that I wore sweats out, my bent for overdressing curbed by the unexpected charm of the sum of these parts. These tonal greys are joined by creams —coat, sneaker panels, and socks, though you can’t really make out the latter in this photo—, but the poppy orange stripe and teal combo make this shine. I’m also wearing stealth Heat Tech tights under these sweatpants, so I’m super insulated. This also held the distinction of my most comfortable winter fit, which means it’ll get a lot of play this year: on pre-coffee errands, at rainy diner breakfasts, and some third thing to make me sound like I’ve had a social life in 2024.
A deceptively simple look. It leans heavily on the outerwear; I’m not sure it’s as interesting when you doff the puffer indoors, but it’s possible a statement necklace could keep it zesty. The loose fit of the wool cargo trousers allows not only for Heat Tech, but an ARQ tank and Kule long sleeve tucked in and under the turtleneck. Suede loafers add their spice— I think it’s the straw color and woven seams that introduce an earthiness to an otherwise tactical streetwear offering. They’re also an epigenetic choice, as this charcoal gray pant and a suede loafer combo remind me of my dead dad. David Hochman would pair this combo with a navy, insulated Harrington jacket. Are we noticing how much I depend on a pop of color to buoy my winter spirits and fits?
This is a fit you’ve seen with ripped jeans subbed in, but I share it as a riff on the outfit above: a streetwise puffer + G.H. Bass loafers + a suggestion of utility in the pants + a touch of whimsy. This is incredibly easy to throw on, but the Gemsun leather beret serves up so much character. More than a bad-hair-day security blanket, its hippie-craft-fair crochet transports the urban uniform to a festival space. Sub in wellies, and I’m basically en route to a Glastonbury late night set. This season, white tights (opaque or lace) have filled in for white socks while warming my legs at the open knees.
It’s a challenge to dress up in the winter. (Again, not for Shani.) When the warmest coat is a puffer, you have to program against that casual element for elegance on a Night Out. A wool or cashmere-based long coat with enough room underneath for sweaters can do the trick, but layer up too many similar, soft textiles and the impact is mushy like porridge (see Looks 2 and 3 above). If you have a lot of galas to attend, you can probably justify the purchase of a fabulous vintage or faux fur coat, but I can’t relate to that use case. Without the aid of a fur coat, I edge up my soft knits and babushka head-wrap with a vintage, oxblood leather coat.
This Winter’s Buds:
This jacket is one of the warmest I have, a crucial purchase this winter. A friend who saw me in this look asked if I would be “reading palms in Bed Stuy later.” When someone can clown on my outfit this hard, I know it’s fire.
In addition to their insulation, white tights can stand in for the Thom Browne-née-Calvin Klein-trendy jockstrap without buying any new underwear. I pulled mine up higher than my jeans’ waistband for a slutty little glimpse of what looks at first glance like some tighty whiteys.
A black hoodie paired with a gray wool dress is not my most colorful work, so I had to hit ‘em with the red tights. Far from feeling revolutionary, I threw this ensemble on when I was feeling blah and my blah changed into a comfortable nonchalance, which is no less than a breakthrough for me.
Some final takeaways:
Topping an outfit with my camel coat can make the look devolve like quicksand into prep, a tug I am consistently warring against. Similarly, a knit-heavy look can read as a full grandparent. Adding a studded bag or sneakers and sweats can add some much-needed interest and balance.
The most replicable fits are those I throw on impulsively that possess opportunities for concealed layers.
If I’m not able to add some contrast or some ornate element to a look, it has to have color interest — whether an accent or a pop, a combination that’s satisfying, or a key contrast. Color is so gd emotional for me!
Signing off to go refill my humidifier and apply some Weleda skin food to my knuckles. See you on the other side!